Part of the problem with buying a Land Rover with no service history is that you feel you have to start doing everything; thus creating a history to ensure to yourself that it is being kept in the best condition possible.
Of course doing a full service upon purchase of a knackered Defender won't make up for years of inadequate servicing, but it puts you in the best position possible.
You get peace of mind that it's in the best condition it could be mechanically and it gives it at least some history which you can use as a selling point in the future.
The LT77 gearbox on a Land Rover Defender has a service interval of 25, miles 40,km or Land Rover suggest once a month when on expedition in arduous conditions! I found it to be a straightforward job: improving the action of the gear lever and even reduced the noise in the cab! The R gearbox fitted to Defenders from onwards is very similar except that it there is only one main drain plug and the filler plug requires a T55 torx bit.
First I removed the gearbox tunnel which made access a bit easier as I had to adjust the difflock linkage at the same time. Undo the filler plug first A and then undo the main drain plug B. It will shoot out quick. Then undo the extension case drain plug C to remove any last traces. The extension case houses the oil pump and fifth gear. The drain plugs are magnetic so catch any metal pieces that come off in the gearbox to prevent them getting caught up in the gears.
There can be more than you think! The main plug had quite a few shards along with a silver sludge made of very fine metal filings. It makes me think the oil hadn't been changed in a while, but finding some metal shards is normal.
I gave it a good wipe. The extension case drain plug also had some metal sludge on it. The filter sits in the plug. The one I removed looked particularly old and twisted, and had pieces of debris that shows it does its job. You can wash it out with diesel but I elected to put in a new one in.Manuale progettazione architettonica pdf
The filter slots into the extension case drain plug and I added a new cardboard washer as well. It needs a little wiggle to get the filter in the right place. I used a new copper washer for the main drain plug too. Tighten both the drain plugs to 20Nm. With the gearbox tunnel out, filling the gearbox again was quite easy. I used the funnel-esque cap of the ATF bottle attached to a piece of hosepipe.
The gearbox took 2. When oil starts flowing from the filler plug, stop, put in the filler plug and tighten to 20Nm. Some of the ATF spilled onto the tray of old oil and really gave a refreshing contrast between the old brown and new red and that warm feeling that you've done something that makes your Defender better. Toggle navigation.Triumph tree samut prakan
Always undo filler plugs first. You don't want to undo the drain plug to find that you can't undo the filler and have no way of getting the oil back in!Log In or Register. Advanced Search. What oil should I use in my LT77 gearbox?
We recommend ATF Dexton 3. We find this very good : ATF. My gearbox rattles on idle, in neutral, with the clutch up.Rollo insurance franklin tx
This is very common on Diesel engined vehicles. The clutch friction plate has a ring of springs, which are there to soften the knock of the diesel engine to stop it being transmitted to the driveline. Often especially with a new clutch these springs are quite tight and a lot of the engine knock goes through to the gearbox and makes the gears "chatter" together when the box is in neutral and the clutch up, it goes when the clutch is depressed.
This can sound quite bad and does vary from car to car but is not detrimental to the life of the gearbox and we view it as an undesirable characteristic of the LT 77 and R as opposed to a fault with either the gearbox or the clutch. The is done by adding or removing shims behind the reverse plunger body which is held on with 2 M8 bolts to the right of the shifter turret in the top housing. I've just fitted a rebuilt gearbox to my defender, the third and fourth shifts are not very good.
Most rebuilt gearboxes, including ours, come without the "turret". This the part that the gearstick bolts to. If you pull back the rubber boot on the turret you will reveal two large springs and two adjuster screws and locknuts. When you fit a new gearbox this can sometimes need adjusting to agree with the selector shafts to ensure a clean gearshift.
Firstly you need to work out which way to adjust it, to do this drive the vehicle but when shifting into 3 and 4 in stead of letting the gearstick go where it wants to go try holding it a little to the left then a little to the right, one way or the other it will drop in nicer. When you have worked this out you can adjust the screws the springs are resting on to lean the stick left or right until it shifts better. My tdi Discovery is very difficult to change gear from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 2nd.
Rebuild the gearbox and replace both thrust washers in the 1 - 2 assembly. I've just fitted a rebuilt gearbox to my Disco, the third and fourth shifts are not very good. This gate position is set by the position of the bias plate. This gate position must be adjusted correctly to agree with the selectors in the gearbox to ensure a good gearshift. When we rebuild the boxes we set this position but sometimes it needs fine tuning when in the car.
If the shifts to 3rd and 4th are not clean you may want to adjust this plate, to do this first you must drive the vehicle but when shifting into 3 and 4 instead of letting the gearstick go where it wants to go try holding it a little to the left then a little to the right, one way or the other it will drop in nicer.
When you have worked this out you can slacken the 4 screws holding the plate and move the plate left or right accordingly to improve the shifts, the holes are elongated to allow some movement.
The best way of ascertaining the degree of wear is to chock the two front wheels, handbrake off, mainbox in first and jack up a rear wheel.One of the biggest issues we see with old gearboxes is failure due to lack of maintenance.
Most people tend to look after their engines well and service them regularly by changing fluids and filter etc. Sadly, they often over look the transmission. A gearbox needs regular maintenance too. With the LT77 you should be looking to change the oil yearly at the very least, maybe more if you are clocking up high miles. The LT77 takes around 2. Firstly, take the car out to get everything up to temperature.
This will thin your transmission fluid.Smartcric.com youtube ipl 2020
To begin draining the oil you will need to remove the filler plug on the side of the gearbox indicated in this picture in yellow. When you remove this plug, no oil should come out. The reason we remove the fill plug first, it to make sure we CAN remove it. The last thing you want is to find that after draining all the oil your filler plug is seized.
Next, you can remove the drain plug indicated in red in the above picture.LT77 gearbox overhaul. Part 2 - Inspection
Have your funnel and container ready. If you are not so lucky, you may drain a lot less. Also you main find your drain plug looking like this. It may put up a fight but will eventually come. You can buy a new strainer and washer kit online very cheap and its worth doing. There are a number of different ways of filling the gearbox with fresh oil and everyone has their preferences. A good way is with a pressured spray can or even an old school oil syringe.LandyZone is the biggest Land Rover forum on the net.
We have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place. Registering is free and easy just click herewe hope to see you on the forums soon!
Lt77 Oil Change
Disco1BFG likes this. Just thinking now of a Plan now to fill the Bloody thing up, after Ive drained it. I can see it from the top if I remove the gear stick Gator thingy, so was thinking of some kind of tube and fill it from up there. Unless anyone knows a trick for doing it. Al2O3 likes this. Al2O3Jul 6, StanleysteamerJul 6, I've got one of these, been in the family at least 40 yrs.
Awesome thing. Not cheap to buy now though secondhand. Library pic not mine. Think Ill have to make do with thistill I can afford one of then fancy sprayers.
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LT77 gearbox filter
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LT77 Gearbox oil?
LT77 Gearbox oil?
Thread starter dsj Start date Jan 13, Hi, I asked earlier about gearbox oil for a lt77 gearbox. ATF was recommended which is what was commonly agreed. I've had a read and some people have now suggested MTF or difflock evolution 1 though that's quite pricey Is everyone here still using ATF or are some using other oils? Thanks, Daniel. The oil I bought but can return if needed was comma mvatf semi-synthetic. I've mainly used this MTF stuff from Morris which on my LT77 which is rather tired noticeably improves the gearchange when cold and quietens down the various out-of-gear noises.
I guess if your gearbox is in good nick it wouldn't make much difference.Biryani ki kore kore dekho
I change it every 10, miles, Tbox, axles and swivel oils also get changed every 10, Engine oil every 2, miles. Retroanaconda In Fourth Gear. Many do without issue. Some use MTF, and it doesn't seem to cause them any problems. It's difficult trying to be good to your landy I am using ATF with Lucas oil stabiliser. Smooths and quitens. In fact the Lucas is in the diffs, transfer box, gear box and engine! It also slows down leaks!Original Poster. Search My Stuff What's New 3 12 24 LT77 gearbox filter.
I find lots of references to one on the 4WD forum, but I'm wondering if one is fitted to the 2WD boxes. This is what I have where the filter would potentially go, but as you can see its just an empty threaded hole and I dont appear to have lost all my gearbox oil out of it- Is this the same on the TVR? N7GTX 4, posts months.
I haven't heard of one on an SD1. Not one listed on Rimmers. Can't say for TVR application. I put a camera up the threaded hole, it's just that and no more.
Pretty sure it's only on the 4x4 boxes now. TV8 3, posts months. Very pleased with it on my old car. I hope all is well with you? I ran Castrol SMX that's a light synthetic manual transmission fluid, that the syncro coped with adequately, but have gone back to ATF as I cant really see me wearing out the LT77 in my life time considering my annual mileage.
I really cant justify the eye watering cost of difflock.Zderzak toyota yaris 2
Mobil 1 engine oil is recommended by members in the SD1 club. Allows for less difficult cold engagement but excellent wear protection. GreenV8S 28, posts months. I found the difflock oil to be very good on track days with smooth gear changes and no gear noise even on minute sessions.
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